So here's that same wipeout from @losteloquence's drone at normal speed. You can see the drop takes me by surprise and makes my right edge catch, throwing me off balance. I should have been leaning hard left into the wave with my brace and probably would have been able to ride it out. Same goes with the swim after. Look at how calm it is after the wave passes me. But my paddle got stuck in the sand, and I was disoriented. Looking back, I could have easily waited a bit, and rolled back up. It's much easier to think that now and not in the moment though. We're all in between swims. Excellent learning experience. Can't wait to do it again and see if I can ride it out next time after seeing all of this footage and getting so many tips from everyone chiming in. #paddlingmixtape #surf #drone @fgeyfman @datalapper

By October 16, 2017PHOTOS

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